Last night just after I got off the train and checked into my hotel in Nasik I headed down to the bathing pools. (Nasik is on a holy river, Godavari, pilgrims come here to bath, pray, and die as the water provides "moksha", soul liberation).
It was dusk. After a short walk I turned the corner and beheld the bathing, temples, and market. I think I gasped. It was one of the most magical places I have ever seen. It seemed I had landed in place untouched by colonialism and Western tourism (although its not of course). There were little candles floating on the water. Women in colorful saris sat on the steps. I sat down and a couple of people tried to talk to me in Hindi. (English is not very widely spoken here like in most places I have been in India). They were friendly, and weren't trying to sell me anything (at least I don't think so). I got up and walked around. A crowd formed around me as I bought something that looked like a voodoo doll from a lady sitting on the bridge. The market consisted of hundreds of vegetable sellers sitting on the floor. Most had little tarps suspended above their heads, some had a naked light bulb hanging down to illuminate their produce. I didn't see any other foreignors.
I heard some live music and I walked in that direction. There was a guy in an elaborate costume sitting on a white horse (also in a costume), people playing drums, and men dancing wildly. I started filming and a man smiled at me and said "it is a marriage ceremony". They urged me to join in the dancing but at first I declined as I only saw men. Then they took me to the group of women nearby. A few talked to me in limited English and then suddenly Rajashiri came and explained to me what was going on in fluent English. She is a software engineer and has worked in San Jose, CA. She became my guide and introduced me to everyone. I danced with the women and then the whole group headed inside a beautiful walled area, with a huge green lawn and a stage. Rajashiri insisted I come up on stage with the family for the actual wedding so I could see the action up close and film. I was kind of embarressed as I was dressed, well not for a wedding. (see photo above). The bride was vibrant, sparkilng, ravishing. It was an arranged marriage (as most still are in India). After the ceremony we had the wedding feast (I was served a plethora of curries and things I have never seen on my own gigantic silver plate). I was treated as a celebrity, an alien celebrity. Everyone made sure that I got enough food and that I was enjoying myself. An old woman invited me to her home. A kid gave me a coin and explained it was an Indian ruppee.
At the end Rajashiri and her cousin gave me a ride home.
Yesterday was a day worth traveling 20 hours by plane to get here for!
No comments:
Post a Comment